Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas 2015
Winery Mote‘You can never have too much of a good thing’ – this proverb sums up the 2015 vintage. It was the kind of year when there were no sub-standard wines, everything was good, even wines from the youngest vines. Our 2015 Gigondas is reminiscent of the 2010 for its density, depth, mellowness and saline freshness. Gigondas offers a fairly unusual rendition of Grenache, difficult to compare with what you find in neighbouring areas. Its character can be ascribed to the ubiquituous limestone marl in our appellation. And Saint Cosme is a very unusual rendition of Gigondas because our soils are distinctively Tortonian and virtually non-existent in other parts of the appellation. This unique soil type at Saint Cosme combines with a cold microclimate with temperature readings matching those at elevations of 400m above sea level, whereas our vineyards sit at an altitude of 240m. This combination of natural factors makes Saint Cosme virtually incomparable and Grenache develops a persona that can be disconcerting such is its pervasive freshness – a dimension rarely associated with this grape. You have to live here to get a proper sense of this and try and style it. For example, our vines face west and therefore bask in the balmy evening sunshine; in the morning, they are sheltered by the Dentelles de Montmirail – these natural patterns impart balance and texture to the wines. All of this is even more discernable in great vintages like 2015.
Excellence, therefore, does serve an educational purpose.
Strawberry, violet, iodine and liquorice. Bottled without filtering.
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Wine SpectatorA textbook version of the brawny side of Gigondas, this offers a grippy alder bass line underneath layers of dark currant and fig fruit, while lots of tobacco, rosemary and bay fill in throughout. Muscular and energetic, this is built for the cellar. Best from 2019 through 2030.
Wine AdvocateStarting with the 2015 Gigondas Classique from Barruol, this blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre and the rest Syrah and Cinsault will be a wine that readers will want to stockpile. Full-bodied, rich, beautifully textured and layered, with killer notes of crème de cassis, white pepper, spice and garrigue, it’s a classic Gigondas that will drink well for 15+ years. Unquestionably one of the reference point estates, not only for Gigondas, but for the entire Southern Rhône, Louis Barruol’s Chateau de Saint Cosme lies just outside the village and covers 25 hectares, with 15 of those located in Gigondas. He makes a fabulous traditional cuvee that has the ability to age for 10-15 years, as well as four single vineyard releases that are primarily Grenache. These single vineyard releases are year in, year out, some of the most impressive wines from the Rhône valley. The winemaking is a mix of modern and tradition, with the wines never destemmed but aged in barrels. Looking at these latest 2015s, Louis bet me a symbolic dollar that these would surpass his 2007s. I think I might win the bet, but not by much, and I’ll certainly be thrilled to lose. Either way, these are undeniably great wines that readers should buy as much as they can afford. The 2014s are more elegant and streamlined, yet they show none of the austerity or firmness that’s common in the vintage and have sweet fruit and ripe tannin. They’re already drinking nicely, but will easily keep for a decade or more.
James SucklingAttractive deep and rich cherry and blackberry fruits, with some savory cola and sweet baking spices, too. The palate has deep flavorsome and fleshy appeal. Long and spicy dark plum fruit finish. Drink now