Absolutely bursting with blue and red fruits, the concentration is deceptive here, as it starts out juicy and full of air, but after a few minutes in the glass you start to feel the weight and the texture, and this turns into an extremely serious wine with real tannic hold. Gorgeous savoury finish, as you get so often in the best Burgundies, where weightlessness is such a brilliant veil to the power behind.

The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked from August 30, the earliest on record, with some previously included parcels now relegated to the Premier Cru. The blend was made at the end of May. With approximately 60% whole-bunch fruit and matured in around 80% new oak (this figure will probably decrease in the future). This has quite a floral bouquet with pressed violets and rose petals infusing the red berry fruit. There is just a hint of balsamic in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit on the entry and fine acidity. Quite saline and spicy in the mouth, delivering satisfying depth toward the finish. This is a very capable Clos de Tart, though one that signposts even better vintages in the future as various improvements come into play.

The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru opens in the glass with rich aromas of raspberries, plum preserve, ripe berries, warm spices and rose petals, framed by a generous touch of creamy new oak. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's rich, muscular and extracted, with a brooding, introverted profile that will require—and, one hopes, reward—patience. As I wrote last year, this is a powerful, broad-shouldered Clos de Tart that has more in common with the wines of the Pitiot era than it does with what the domaine produced in 2015, 2016, 2017 or 2019.