Dönnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2018
The Dönnhoff family first came to the Nahe region over 200 years ago, and after establishing a modest farm slowly evolved into a full-fledged wine estate. Helmut Dönnhoff has been making the wine since 1971, and now his son Cornelius works alongside in the winery and in their 25 hectares of Erste Lage, or grand cru vineyards. Their holdings represent some of the best in the Nahe and all of Germany. Oberhäuser Leistenberg, the oldest vineyard held by the family, has slate soils and produces fruity wines with elegant acidity.
Steep, southeasterly facing slope with grey clay slate soil. The morning sun dries the grapes, keeping them healthy; while the afternoon sun is not so direct, allowing the grapes to ripen for a very long time without becoming overripe. A perfect vineyard for Kabinett wines!
Fermented and matured in stainless steel vats and large oak barrels.
Traditional, precise Kabinett with delicate slate aromatics. Nuanced finesse and spicy acidity.
Grown on grey clay slate soils on a steep southeast-facing site, this has a fresh nose of green apple. In the mouth it has evident sweetness (55g/l as it turns out - levels in 2018 were higher than usual), with more of that fresh apple but this time fleshed out with some richer honey and a hint of stone fruit. Despite this, it retains great balance thanks to its very present acidity. Barrel sample. Drinking Window 2019 - 2035.
The relatively cool Leistenberg is ideally suited to a wine of brightness and levity even in a growing season as precocious and warm as that of 2018. Lime, pear and apple deliver stimulating aromatic penetration as well as zest and crunch on a polished, downright delicate palate. The penetrating, animating, ultra-refreshing finish is strikingly transparent to underlying wet stone.
The 2018 Oberhäuser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett is darker toned and ripe on the flinty nose, with its crushed stone aromas. Richer and more intense on the palate, this is an almost creamy-textured and persistently salty Leistenberg that is quite rich but still playful and stimulating. It's just more generous and solemn on the palate. Perhaps more a Spätlese style but very stimulating in fact. Tasted in July 2019. This is riper and more powerful than the 2017.
A soft and minerally white with lemon rind, licorice and violet undertones. Grilled peaches. Medium-bodied, creamy and delicious. Drink now. Screw cap.