Weingut Goldatzel Johannisberger Goldatzel Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2017
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The wine in '17 is perfect. Digital, quince-like, wintergreen and ginger. Does Riesling give greater sheer joy?
Pear wreathed in honeysuckle coveys a deceptive aura of sweetness on the nose – because the wine tastes virtually dry – but the fruit succulence and inner-mouth florality that ensue are flatteringly-complemented by the wine’s seductively creamy texture. And as with some of the other best Goldatzel 2017s, creaminess is entirely compatible with animating juiciness, here supplied by a squeeze of fresh lemon that, in tandem with tang of pear skin, piquancy of pear and lemon pips, as well as marine salinity serves for a surprisingly and delightfully invigorating as well as mouthwatering finish. And at 11.5% alcohol, the overall impression is buoyant, even if marginally less-so than in this wine’s vintage 2016 predecessor.