Weingut Goldatzel Johannisberger Goldatzel Riesling Kabinett Feinherb 2017
The wine in '17 is perfect. Digital, quince-like, wintergreen and ginger. Does Riesling give greater sheer joy?
|Region||Germany, Rheingau, Johannisberg|
VinousPear wreathed in honeysuckle coveys a deceptive aura of sweetness on the nose – because the wine tastes virtually dry – but the fruit succulence and inner-mouth florality that ensue are flatteringly-complemented by the wine’s seductively creamy texture. And as with some of the other best Goldatzel 2017s, creaminess is entirely compatible with animating juiciness, here supplied by a squeeze of fresh lemon that, in tandem with tang of pear skin, piquancy of pear and lemon pips, as well as marine salinity serves for a surprisingly and delightfully invigorating as well as mouthwatering finish. And at 11.5% alcohol, the overall impression is buoyant, even if marginally less-so than in this wine’s vintage 2016 predecessor.
Wine SpectatorMineral driven, with fine acidity cruising along, balancing the slightly off-dry profile of this lovely Riesling. Very giving, with flavors of passion fruit and quince and a lingering clove note on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 120 cases imported.