Peay Pomarium Estate Pinot Noir 2018
We make our Estate wines blind to production information: we don’t know the clones, or the % oak, or the % whole cluster, or anything when we taste. After we selected the final blend for the 2018 Pomarium and looked at what clones and barrels made up our favorite blend, we were a little bemused. We selected a blend made from only two clones that are always in the wine, but the other 2-3 clones that are often there to provide lift and complexity, were not. The vintage was so good for Pinot noir that the strong blocks were multi-dimensional and didn't need the “role player” clones to fill in gaps. Blending is a curious art and this type of experience keeps you humble on the difference between what you know and what you think you know. The final blend has only Dijon 667 and Calera clones of Pinot noir. As you would expect, the profile hews more to the darker fruit expression including plums and blackberry. There is depth of flavor across the mid palate—what I call density—but it is not fat or fleshy. A few anise and bark notes peek out in the finish along with some floral notes from a touch of whole cluster.
The 2018 Estate Pinot Noir Pomarium is a gorgeous wine that's immediately accessible but has the stuffing and structure to age gracefully in the cellar. The nose offers forest floor, wet leaves and laurel, cranberry sauce and blood orange with notes of lavender, garrigue and blueberries. The palate is medium-bodied, expanding outward to super perfumed, concentrated fruits, finely grained and seamlessly fresh with a very long finish. 575 cases produced.
The 2018 Pinot Noir Estate Pomarium is the most inward of the Peay 2018 Pinots. There is good depth and density but the 2018 is decidedly inward looking today. A wine of power and drive, the Pomarium needs time to unwind, that's pretty clear. At the same time, the potential is evident. Time in the glass brings out scents of rose petal, lavender, mint, sage and spice, along with gorgeous red/purplish berry fruit.