The complexity and beauty to this is really something with cherry, walnut, tobacco and cigar-box character. Sweet cherries. It’s full-bodied and deep with super intensity and power. Layered and beautiful. Really refined tannins. Some whole-berry fermentation gives this added character. Goes on for minutes.

The 2016 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino really stands out with its vivid display of crushed raspberries, lavender and clove. Further depths are found with each swirl, adding mentholated herbs and flowery undergrowth. It’s dense and dark-fruited, enveloping the palate with notes of black cherry, plum, exotic savory spice and minerals. This is soothing and pliant in spite of the 2016’s youthful state, balancing brisk acids and fine tannins to create a push and pull of structural tension. The symmetry here is spellbinding, and everything is in the right place for a long and fruitful evolution over the next ten to fifteen years. Tasted twice with consistent results.

The Castiglion del Bosco 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a fruit-forward expression with soft cherry, blackberry, tilled earth and a touch of sweet spice. This wine is made in an especially accessible style that prizes ripe fruit and oak aging (in both barrique and botte). Fruit comes from a 52-hectare vineyard with galestro schist and clay. The tannins are more evident here compared to the 2015 vintage; however, this wine is almost ready to go with beef tagliata topped with porcini mushrooms.

A wild and unbridled version, as much about the woodsy pine, wild herb and iron flavors as the brooding black cherry and blueberry fruit. Long and resonant, with muscular tannins and lively acidity lending support.

With an eye towards the Mediterranean Sea, Castiglion del Bosco’s Capanna vineyard is in the far northwest of Montalcino. The estate remarked that harvest started a little later than it did in 2015 and each plot was harvested at optimal maturity. There is a pristine and precise quality to this: focused aromas of woodland berries, spice and blossoms beg a sip. It expands sinuously across the palate, bringing in accents of orange zest and black tea as compact, powdery tannins build up. Satisfyingly racy.