Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups Montlouis sur Loire Les Hauts de Husseau 2019
|Region||France, Loire Valley, Touraine|
|Brand||Domaine de la Taille Aux Loups|
Now one of the Loire's leading top-quality producers Jacky Blot was a négociant in Tours before he took over the Domaine de la Taille aux Loups in Montlouis in 1988. All of their wines, even the base wine for the sparkling Monlouis, are fermented and aged in barriques of various ages. Rémus comes from a number of parcels of vines between 50 and 80 years old. The barrels used are 20% new with the rest between one and four years old. When tasted in early February it had fine balance of crisp fruit and acidity with a touch of pineapple.
It's not Mont Blanc, but Les Hauts de Husseau is the highest point in the Montlouis appellation (at 90 meters in altitude), and so the local limestone is close to the surface, which is palpable in the chalky texture and fine line of the 2019. It comes from a cold site that's picked around a week and a half later than the domaine's other sites, but boy, is it worth the wait. It’s a little closed compared with its stablemates, but this is an exciting wine with underlying power that goes on and on, offering excellent distance. While there are subtle custard apple and crème caramel characters (likely a result of fermentation in old oak and extended time on fine lees), this is a wine whose most intriguing aspect is its texture and structure. There’s no hurry to drink this one.