So much citrus energy and juiciness that it’s hard to resist, the orange-juice acidity driving this along at a brisk tempo. Then comes a chalky quality that, in combination with the acidity, gives this remarkable energy at the long, crisp finish. Oh yes, it has some natural grape sweetness, too. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.

The 2021 Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl Riesling Kabinett is precise and stony on the intense and well-concentrated nose that shows ripe lemon and coolish gravel aromas. Lush, refined and elegant on the palate, this is a pure and salty, tensioned, piquant and grippy Riesling with mouth-filling fruit and juiciness. Not really a Kabinett but a feinherb Spätlese in style, this is a long-distance runner with lovely digestibility. 9% stated alcohol. Screw cap. Tasted in July 2022.