This is a blend of 78% Napa Valley- and Sonoma-grown Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Shiraz from Paso Robles. It is a smooth and earthy wine that offers flavors of leather, earth, iron and crushed rock cut against herbal accents.

A very fine and polished red with cherry, berry, chocolate and cedar aromas and flavors. Some spice and meat with hints of tea leaf. Some ash, too. Medium body and extremely refined texture, showing real balance and elegance. The tannins spread across the palate in a beautiful way.

The 2018 Cabernet Shiraz Bin 600 is the entry-level wine in this new range from Penfolds. Bold and racy to the core, the 2018 possesses terrific richness and tons of allure. Blackberry jam, dried flowers, espresso, licorice and leather build in a sumptuous, opulent wine that will be very easy to drink upon release. The blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Shiraz from sites in Napa Valley, Sonoma and Paso Robles works so well here. It spent 16 months in American oak, 40% new.

Fruitcake, tar, eucalyptus and incense envelop the nose, then flavours of black liquorice, dark chocolate, molasses and espresso completely coat the palate. The finish showcases concentrated, powerful dark fruits and leathery, fine tannins.

Modest in scale, but delivers a pure beam of raspberry and cherry purée, with light floral and anise hints in the background. Finish is unencumbered by toast and lingers prettily. Tasted three times, with consistent notes.

This 2018 Bin 600 is the first release of this new Penfolds California label. It is a blend of two different regions and two different varieties: 78% Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley and 22% Shiraz from their vineyards in the Camatta Hills area of California Central Coast (about 15 miles east of Paso Robles). The interesting twist to the story behind this wine is that Block 10 in the Camatta Hills vineyard was planted in the late 1990s with Shiraz cuttings from two of Penfolds's most iconic South Australia vineyards: Magill Estate and Kalimna vineyard. This is the Shiraz component. "So," Peter Gago told me, "this has been a project in the making for a long time. We see this project as a continuation—making wine through a Penfolds lens, but made in California." Deep garnet-purple colored, it comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of stewed plums, black cherry preserves and blueberry pie plus suggestions of kirsch, spice cake, licorice and dried mint. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a nice chewiness to the texture and just enough freshness supporting the black fruit preserves, finishing on a savory note.