A collaboration with rockstar sommeliers Rajat Parr and Marco Pelletier, the 2017 Champagne Les Hautes Mottes Brut Nature lends a reflective straw appearance and is inflected with a fresh, floral perfume of fresh linen, candied lime, green apple, and shortbread. Linear and chalky, it has a pinpoint mousse that accents and complements its mineral-focused texture, with notes of crushed shells as well as a delicate floral and saline flourish. It’s long on the palate and very appealing. Drink 2024-2034.

The 2017 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Les Hautes Mottes Grand Cru is from a single parcel of vines in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Lemon is suffused with salty, cool polenta on the nose. The taut palate is accentuated by fine mousse on a slender, salty lemony palate that just takes you deeper and deeper into the chalky soil. This is slender, refined, profound, elegant, but also alive with energy and a lasting umami finish. Dosage is 4.9gr/L. Disgorged: November 4, 2022.