Nikolaihof Zwickl Gruner Veltliner 2019
This is, in essence, an unfiltered “Hefeabzug,” and you get two wines in the same bottle if you want. How? It’s fallen bright in the top one-third, and if you pour carefully you will have a clear wine. You can then shake the rest of the bottle to mix the sediment and pour yourselves a cloudy glass of tasty atavism. They encourage this!
Nikolaihof’s holdings are some of the farthest east in the Wachau near the village of Mautern on the Danube’s south bank. These are also some of the oldest known vineyards in Europe with sites such as “im Weingebirge” being mentioned as far back as 470AD. Whether it’s Nikolaus biodynamic know-how, his focus on ancestral vinification techniques, or the quality of his terroir, the resulting wines are wildly unique and joyful. They are singular wines; irreplicable anywhere else in the wine making world.
The haze of yeast, a result of unfiltered bottling, really gives this light gruner something special and the fruit of the 2019 vintage fits well with that. Nice, nutty apple character with a touch of creaminess from the suspended lees. Bright, crisp finish. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold. Screw cap.