The 2018 San Biagio, a 100% varietal Sangiovese, balances tart cherry, peppery herbs, leather and dark earth tones to create a savory and wonderfully inviting display. The textures are soft; yet its fruits are ripe and fleshy, with notes of sour citrus and juicy acids maintaining freshness while keeping the energy high. This is dangerously delicious, finishing long with echoes of blackberry and spice. While I wouldn’t hold the 2018 too long in the cellar, it will make a lot of people very happy over the next few years.

Lavender, juniper and eucalyptus aromas add balsamic elements to the sour cherry and currant fruit in this red, which is lively and firm, with iron and tobacco gracing the long, dry finish. Needs some time, but the length reveals its potential. Sangiovese. Drink now through 2028. 1,500 cases made, 715 cases imported.

The Lisini 2018 San Biagio is a pure expression of Sangiovese made only in steel vat and cement tanks, and it opens to a compact appearance and a slightly darkened garnet hue. The wine is simple and one-dimensional at the end of the day-and on the watery side-but it does deliver the varietal freshness, with wild cherry and rose, that could stand up to a classic pizza margherita. Some 17,600 bottles of this well-priced bottle are on the market now.