This graceful Champagne is like the finely tailored suit that somehow never goes out of style, with a lovely overtone of minerally chalk and brine enticing you into the glass, where flavors of apricot and Marcona almond, and hints of passionfruit coulis and pickled ginger, ride the fine, satinlike mousse. Disgorged autumn 2018. Drink now through 2028. 1,650 cases made, 150 cases imported.

The latest rendition of Lilbert's NV Grand Cru Cramant Blanc de Blancs was disgorged in spring 2019 with a low three grams per liter dosage. It's based on the 2016 vintage, complemented by 50% reserve wines. Offering up a crisp and pure bouquet of green apple, wet stones and lemon oil, as well as subtle suggestions of freshly baked bread, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and incisive, with fine depth at the core, a delicate mousse and a chalky finish. This is quite a tender, charming rendition of this cuvée, despite the very low dosage, but as usual it will amply reward some aging on cork.