A classy Champagne, with a lovely, viscous creaminess on the palate, carrying finely detailed flavors of peach skin, spring blossom, steeped raspberry and slivered almond. Long and mouthwatering, with a well-spiced finish.

The NV Brut Grand Cellier (2015 base) is fabulous. Rich, ample and creamy, the Grand Cellier is so alluring from the very first taste. All the Vilmart signatures - most notably uncommon elegance - come through loud and clear. Baked apple tart, pear, spice and a hint off butter add nuance, but it is the wine's overall feel that impresses most. Readers will have a hard time keeping their hands off this seductive Champagne from Vilmart. Disgorged: July 1, 2018.

The July 2019 disgorgement of Vilmart's NV Brut Premier Cru Grand Cellier is showing nicely, and it has hardly evolved in the last year. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of crisp Anjou pear, waxy citrus rind, bee pollen, white flowers and blanched almonds, it's medium to full-bodied, taut and incisive, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a pretty pinpoint mousse. This is based on the 2016 harvest with reserve wines from the 2015 and 2014 vintages.