An elegant version, fine and creamy in texture and backed by lively, orange peel acidity. A streak of smoke-tinged minerality underscores flavors of almond madeleine, poached pear, anise and preserved lemon. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. Drink now.

(roughly 50% Pinot Noir, 35% Pinot Meunier and 15% Chardonnay; 9 g/l dosage; LAIBG): Light, bright yellow. Musky pear and toasty lees on the nose and in the mouth. Fleshy and open-knit, with a hint of bitter lemon pith adding back-end cut. Finishes on a gently smoky note, with very good cling and focus and a hint of bitter quinine. This must be the best example of this bottling that I've had in years, if not decades. In the past the Imperial Brut received a dosage of 12 g/l, but no more; in fact, there's talk that in the near future it may be dropped down as far as 7 g/l.

Well balanced, this Champagne, even with its enormous production, remains a benchmark and is always enjoyable. In this bottling, ripe white fruit is cut with citrus, with an edge of toastiness that gives complexity. Drink now.

The latest release of the NV Brut Imperial is showing quite well, exhibiting an attractive bouquet of smoky pears, warm bread and dried white flowers. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with a youthfully frothy mousse, ripe acids and a nicely balanced but somewhat fleeting finish. Given the sheer quantities produced, it's a very impressive effort.